DO YOU WANT THE BEST ESTIMATE FOR YOUR EV CHARGER WIRING?

Just because you can use cheaper products according to code, it doesn't mean you should. With EVs being fairly new, Bob has seen the consequences of poor installations and using products that are not designed to meet the electrical demands of an EV Charger. In this video Bob explains why his price may be higher than some of his competition and it boils down to making sure your installation is not only according to Code, but will be safe for years. Before using price alone as the deciding factor in whom you hire, please take a few minutes and hear him out.

Hey people, Bob here with NC Express Services.

I want to thank you for tuning in, and more importantly, I want to thank you for choosing us to come out and give you an estimate on your EV charger. Congratulations on your car, by the way.

I'm honored to be able to do that for you. But I wanted to make this video so that, before we even come out there, you're aware of the type of company that you are hopefully entrusting your electrical system to.

How We're Different With EV Installations

When it comes to EVs, we are a little bit different than most contractors. I'm not going to promise you that we're going to give you the cheapest price. We don't do that.

What I will promise you is we're going to give you the most quality, safe installation for your money. That's more important to me than price.

1. Receptacle Choice Matters

Let's talk about the receptacle. If you're getting an EV that plugs in and has a receptacle, the code allows what's called a 50 amp receptacle, same as on your range. They're about 11 bucks. I will not allow my technicians to put them in. Here's why: they burn up.

Google “EV receptacles,” look at images, and you'll see what I'm talking about. The reason they do not last is because of the continuous load that an EV charger has on it. If your car is almost dead, you could plug it in and have it pulling the full amount of juice or electricity for six hours or more. An oven never pulls that type of load for that long.

Even if your oven's on full blast, it will cycle off as it reaches temperature. Rarely do you have the oven set at 500° and all four burners running continuously for six hours or more. When electricity is used at that level, it generates heat, and the connections inside the inexpensive range receptacles are not designed for that. I guarantee you, in the next year or so, you're going to see it will be mandatory to go to the industrial-grade receptacles that we use.

They cost more, but they can handle the heat longer, they don’t burn up, and if you Google the pictures, you’ll see exactly what I’m talking about.

2. Safety Disconnects

If we put a disconnect in, by code, you do not need to have one on the charger, especially if it's got a breaker right next to it. If your charger's near the panel, and you've got a circuit breaker there, that's great. If you're having a problem with your car or the charger, you can turn the electricity off right there in the panel.

But what if it’s outside?

What if your car is outside, the charger's outside, your panel’s inside, and you’re charging it with the garage closed? If there’s a problem, what happens? You’ve got to find the electric panel, get to it, and turn the breaker off.

For a little bit of money, I'd rather make you safe and secure. We put a disconnect right next to it. You can unplug it and it’s off right then and there, much safer.

Even the quality of the disconnect we put in is different. Most use an air conditioning disconnect with a plastic insert. We won’t do that. Ours is all metal because plastic can’t handle the heat either.

3. Proper Torque on Connections

We torque every single connection in your charger and in the breaker. By code, you have to tighten down on the conductors on the wires to a certain number of foot-pounds, as dictated by the breaker manufacturer or the charger.

Most electricians do not torque their connections. I’ve been doing this 40 years. We do.

If it’s too loose, the heat can cause it to loosen up again, generate more heat, and start melting.

If it’s too tight, I’ve seen people use drills, it could split the metal on the connection. That creates a loose electrical connection and causes even more problems.

We don’t allow that.

4. One-Year Follow-Up at No Cost

I take it one step further, and this is important:

We make an appointment to come back to your home or business one year later to check the torque, at no extra cost. We know connections can loosen up, and we want to make sure yours is not. A year later, we come back, no invoice is given, and we verify that everything is still tight. That’s the kind of connection I want. That’s how we can warrant our work for life.

Trust the Right Contractor

There are a lot of other things that we can do for you, but that’s what I want you to look at when you’re deciding who to trust your electrical system to. It’s not just about price. We’re going to give you the best installation we possibly can.

I appreciate your time. If you're still listening, if you hung in there to hear my raspy voice (pollen's got me)... thank you. Our tech will be out there probably in the next day or two, whenever you can swing an appointment.

If you have any questions, ask them. Ask me.

You can call me: 919-859-5888. Just ask for Bob.

Alright. God bless, and enjoy your car.